White heaven

Meera Raghunandan, Jun 3, 2012 :

Source: Deccan Herald

Reaching Yumesamdong, 15,000 ft above sea level, is no easy feat, especially if one is prone to altitude and motion sickness.

One is guaranteed a liberal dose of altitude and mean rides on a SUV to reach this place, in a far flung corner of Sikkim.

However, if you are the type who can draw pleasure from stunning views of snow-capped mountain ranges and can smile away all your worries by looking at a valley filled with rhododendrons, the journey to Yumesamdong will be etched in your memory forever.

We set out on a Monday morning from Bangalore, flying all the way to Bagdogra in West Bengal, which is the nearest airport to reach Sikkim. From Bagdogra, there were nicely tarred roads all the way to Gangtok.

It was a six-hour drive for a distance of just 125 km. By late evening, we reached Gangtok and checked in to a hotel, which is about a 10-minute walk from the main shopping area of Mahatma Gandhi Marg.

The next morning, we awoke to pleasant views of mountains in the distance and a not-so-bustling city close by. The MG Road beckoned with different outlets offering momos, warm clothes, artefacts and even pizzas with carrot toppings.

The best part of this road was that it was in the no-vehicle zone, making it ideal for a leisurely stroll. The next day we headed to Tsonga (pronounced Chongu) Lake.

This jaw-dropping lake was about a couple of hours’ drive from Gangtok and could only be reached through a back-breaking drive on very treacherous landslide-prone mountain ranges. One got exposed to very high altitudes in the range of 12,400 ft very quickly, without much chance of acclimatisation.

The lake, nestled between snow-capped mountains, is simply breathtaking. Very innovative local tradesmen and women hired out warm clothes, gloves and plastic boots for tourists to walk in the snow, and sold hot Maggi and tea. They also had yaks for hire for people who did not wish to walk in the snow.

The views were spectacular, but it was too cold for comfort. So we headed out of Tsongo. About an hour ahead was the Chinese border, viewed from Nathula Pass, which we had to skip as the roads were blocked due to unexpected snowfall.

The next morning, we set out to North Sikkim, a good day’s travel from Gangtok. On the way, we stopped at Tashi View Point. On a good day, one can see stunning views of the Kachenjunga.

On other days, we must make do with views of lesser known but still appealing mountain ranges and kadak masala chai available along with hot pakodas. We ploughed through the rough terrain, which didn’t seem so bad due to the expert driving of our very experienced driver, his light and easy banter, the good SUV, the many small waterfalls on the way and other stunning views.

By late evening, we reached the quiet village of Lachung. Beyond evening, there seemed to be no signs of life in the mountains. So, with an early dinner and after a few card games, we turned in early.

The next morning, after about an hour-and-a-half of driving from Lachung, we reached the Valley of Flowers, where the rhododendrons were blooming in all their colourful glory.

Red, pink, purple, white — whatever your choice — every single rhododendron put a smile on our faces. Beautiful snow-clad mountains overlooking a valley full of rhododendrons is a sight that filled the mind with peace and
contentment.

There were hardly any visitors as compared to the Tsongo Lake. What a show nature had put up for us. The whole way to Yumesamdong was so beautiful that it brought tears to our eyes.

Finally, an hour later, we reached the place we had seen in pictures and fallen in love with. White peaks all around and plateaus of snow for us to play in — this was simply heaven.