TRAVELOGUE: Across Gangtok

BY NEHA DIXIT

It’s No Big Deal

Come summer and people from the plains will head for the hills. And what can top the thrill of being on a hill. A hilltop, of course. Gangtok is the perfect retreat from the beating and battering summer heat. Until 1975 the thumb-shaped North-eastern state was ruled by the Namsung Chogyal monarchy. Time and modernisation has robbed its capital city ~ Gangtok ~ off things that were prized ~ peace, solitude, and an invigorating, rolling green landscapes.

Prices here now are as steep as the topography! The drive from Siliguri is still quite lovely but extremely expensive. Only locally-licensed Sikkim cabs are allowed to ply the route, or ferry you anywhere within the state. So, there are no bargains. There is, however, a glut of cheap hotels that are booked much ahead of the peak season. For up to Rs 500 a night, safe and clean rooms are available but if you have deep pockets, there are plenty of hotels to choose from.

Once the rooms are sorted, you can focus on food. Skip the regular tourist fare ~ Continental, Chinese, even Tandoori ~ and sample local delicacies. Delicious Tibetan momos and thukpas, and for the adventurous “nettle soup” and Churpi, a hard, chewy candy made from dried yak’s milk.
The Teesta is the lifeline of Sikkim, and the monasteries are its heart. Buddhism came to Sikkim as early as the ninth century. The largest monastery here is the Rumtek, built in the sixteenth century by Karmapa Wangchuk Dorje. The 45-minute drive is grand, with the north-western peaks glinting in the sun and sweeping views of terraced architecture from across the mountain. The sprawling Rumtek complex is not only a stupa but also a centre of higher learning. The 10-feet high golden statue of the Buddha is the nerve centre of this enchanted place. Next, make your way up to the Nathula pass (on the Indo-China border) in a shared jeep (Rs 500). Stop by Changu Lake, the largest in Sikkim. The area is controlled by the Army but a tourist economy has sprung up around the sacred lake. The colourful prayer flags add a lively touch to the stark greys and whites at 12,000 feet.

A range of snow-capped mountains ~ which don’t seem to differentiate between Indian and Chinese soil ~ extend far out into the horizon. The climb to the barrier leaves most travellers breathless but I was left breathless by the sheer thrill of being here. To me it was really a big deal!

The writer is the anchor of No Big Deal on NDTV Good Times. The show airs on Mondays

source; the statesman